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Perched on a headland overlooking the mouth of Lough Swilly, just past the tiny village from which it takes its name, Fort Dunree began life as a Martello tower and was then enlarged into a fortress. It now has a museum of predictable military memorabilia (June-Sept Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; GBP1.80/?2.28; car park GBP2/?2.53), though the audiovisual display at least provides an insight into the fort's former use. North out of Dunree village the road climbs steeply past a scattering of weather-beaten thatched cottages before crossing a small bridge close to the Gap of Mamore ( madhm mor , "the great mountain pass"), which seems like a chunk bitten out of the Urris Mountains. From here the road spirals steeply downwards, each bend providing an ever-wider and more spectacular view of the flat foreground to Dunaff Head. The mile-long Tullagh Strand , to the east of Dunaff Head, is a safe bathing beach, with Tullagh Bay Camping and Caravan Park just behind it (tel 077/76289 or 76138). The Rusty Nail pub, by the roadside, has music at weekends and offers good-value bar food and Sunday lunch. The road from here works its way inland between the mountains to CLONMANY , a village of predominantly cream-coloured terraced houses, a few grocery shops and several bars. The backdrop of mountains on all sides shields it from any thought of an outside world. The holiday village of BALLYLIFFIN is more geared to tourism, and has several places to stay . The imposing Ballyliffin Hotel (tel 077/76106; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28) has a fine restaurant, while B&B options include Castlelawn House (tel 077/76600; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) and Rossaor House (tel 077/76498; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84). Apart from golf - the Glashedy course here (tel 077/67119) is reckoned to be one of the toughest in Ireland - the other main local draw is the traditional song festival held on the last weekend in March. Should you want to explore the area, bikes can be rented from McEleney's Cycles (tel 077/76541) on the road to Clonmany. The minor road heading north from Ballyliffin leads to the entrancing Pollan Strand , at the northern tip of which stands the ruin of Carrickabraghy Castle , an O'Doherty defence built in the sixteenth century. Weathered by centuries of spray and sea salt, the stones of the tower show colours ranging from the darkest hues through oranges and reds to golden yellows. The strand itself has wonderfully wild breakers, which unfortunately make it dangerous to swim. The castle sits on the western side of DOAGH ISLE , another former island, linked to the mainland through centuries of silt accumulation, which you can drive onto by a road a couple of miles east of Ballyliffin. You can't miss the turning, as there's a mannequin pointing the way and, a little further on, a similar male pulling a cart containing a donkey. These direct you to the Doagh Visitor Centre (Easter-Oct daily 10am-5.30pm; GBP3/?3.80 including tea and scones), one man's intriguing attempt to tell the Famine story. You'll discover a re-created farm cottage (including a remarkably small 'kitchen' bed), the fairy house home of Fergus McArt, and more mannequins in various symbolic tableaux. Head out further east for Trawbreaga Bay ( tra breige , "the treacherous strand"), an exquisite piece of coastline. The mouth of the bay is bewitching: if you walk onto the beach here you'll find the sea has fashioned the rocks into myriad shapes and colours.
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