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Four miles north of Carndonagh, and approached via a ten-arched bridge, is MALIN village, tucked picturesquely into the side of Trawbreaga Bay. A planter settlement with a charming grassy Diamond, it has two pubs, McClean's and McGonnigle's , as well as the recently renovated Malin Hotel (tel 077/70645, malinhotel@eircom.net ; GBP55-70/69.84-88.88) which hosts a variety of entertainments. A little way north of Malin a signpost shows the way to Five Fingers Strand , across the bay from Doagh Isle - it's worth the diversion to experience the ferocity of the breakers on the beach and the long walks on its sands. Following the "Inishowen 100" signs will next lead you around Knockamany Bens, from which there are tremendous views of the strand and, occasionally at low tide, of the wreck of the Twilight which sank in 1889 en route to Newfoundland. Twelve miles north of Malin village, Malin Head , the northernmost extremity of Ireland, might not be as stupendous as other Donegal headlands but is nevertheless excellent for blustery, winding coastal walks - and for ornithologists: choughs, with their glossy black plumage and red legs and bill, inhabit the cliffs and the rasping cry of the rare corncrake can be heard in the fields. The headland's tip is marked by Bamba's Crown , a ruined signal tower, built in 1805. The words "S.S. Eire" ( Saor Stat , "Free State") are written below the tower. Five miles offshore is the now-deserted Inishtrahull Island , though boats from the pier at Bulbinbeg (a half-mile walk from Farren's bar) will take you there in summer. Some say its name translates as the "Island of Yonder Strand", though others claim its meaning derives from a legendary murder - "Island of the Bloody Strand" or even "Shore Grave". Whatever the case, the island is composed of the oldest rock in Ireland, Lewisian gneiss that is two billion years old. Continuing a walk on Malin Head, the western path from Bamba's Crown heads out to Hells Hole , a 250ft chasm in the cliffs, which roars with the onrushing tide. Past the Seaview Tavern to the east, a path leads to the Wee House of Malin , a hermit's cell in the nearby cliff, once the home of St Muirdealach, where there's a "wishing-chair". B&B places on the headland include Barraicin (Easter-Oct; tel 077/70184; GBP26-33/33.01-41.90) and High View (tel 077/70283; GBP26-33/33.01-41.90), both overlooking the Atlantic. There are a couple of excellent hostels here too. The Malin Head Hostel (open all year, but advance booking necessary Nov-March; tel 077/70309), just past the post office on the way into Bulbinbeg, is well-equipped and has private rooms, and the owner, who also offers reflexology and aromatherapy, is a mine of information on the area. Alternatively, Sandrock Holiday Hostel (tel 077/70289, sandrockhostel@eircom.net ), at Port Ronan Pier - fork left at the Crossroads Inn - has dormitory accommodation, wonderful sea views and bikes for rent. The best place to eat is The Cottage (March-May Sun 1.30-6.30pm; June-Sept Mon-Sat 11am-6.30pm, Sun 1.30-6.30pm), a restored thatched cottage on Malin Head near Bamba's Crown; apart from the fine tea room, with salmon available in season, there's tourist information here and traditional sessions in summer. Both the Seaview Tavern (with a tiny public bar-cum-hardware shop) and the Bree Inn serve meals and have music on Saturdays, while Farren's bar is a cosy place to sit and chat to the locals.
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