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Not far to the east of Carndonagh are a neighbouring set of historical remains - the Carrowmore high crosses, the Cloncha cross, the Bocan stone circle and the Temple of Deen. To get to the Carrowmore high crosses , take the Moville direction out of Carndonagh for four miles, then turn right forty yards after the signposted turning for Culdaff: the two plain crosses are eighty yards up the lane, one on each side, the northern cross undecorated, while its partner has a figure, supposedly of Christ. These and a few meagre building stones are all that remain of the ancient monastery of St Chonas, husband of Dareaca, a sister of St Patrick. For the Cloncha cross and church , return to the Culdaff turning and follow it for a couple of miles until you see a bungalow with a garden hedge of small firs. The site is up a path alongside. This was once the most important monastic foundation in Inishowen, a status reflected in the beautiful designs carved on the cross's stem. Inside the ruined sixteenth-century church are a few more carved stones, the outstanding piece being a tenth-century tombstone. For the other two sites, continue onwards towards Culdaff, turn right at the church and then first left. The Bocan stone circle is through the first field gate on the left. Only seven of the original stones still stand, among a residue of fallen ones; they were all placed here at least three thousand years ago. There's a fine view of the surrounding ring of hills and it's believed that the stones were deliberately aligned on an east-west axis between Slieve Snaght and Jura. On the other side of the main road from the circle is a gallery tomb known as the Temple of Deen (go a little further along towards Moville and take a right up as far as the wire barrier - you'll spot it from there). It's nothing special, but it's possible that what is exposed today is only the central chamber of an immense cairn. Unfortunately, there has been no archeological investigation of either this or the stone circle. CULDAFF is the nearest base for all of these places, a cosy village set around an ancient stone bridge whose nearby beach forms a stunning natural crescent. There's a major sea angling festival here at the end of July and, in October, a cultural weekend commemorates the eighteenth-century actor, Charles Macklin. However, for the rest of the year, it's McGrory's bar which is the centre of attention. It may be hard to credit, considering its isolated location, but the Back Room here is one of the best venues in Ireland for live music and the bar is decorated with numerous pictures of the stars who've appeared to prove it. You can stay here too (tel 077/79104, www.mcgrorys.ie ; GBP70-90/88.88-114.28), or at Ceecliff House (tel 077/79159; GBP33-40/41.90-50.79) or Culdaff House (March-Oct; tel 077/79103; GBP26-33/33.01-41.90). Alternatively, there's hostel accommodation at The Pines (tel 077/79060), four hundred yards down the road to Bunagee Pier. Summer boat trips to Inishtrahull Island leave from the pier (tel 077/70605).
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