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The approach to the most stimulating of all Inishowen's sights, the ancient fort known as the Grianan Ailigh, passes the Liam McCormack-designed Burt Church , near Bridgend on the N13 Letterkenny-Derry road. This is probably the most beautiful new church in all Ireland, and like other McCormack designs in Donegal, its structure is evocative of the mystical landmark nearby. The seating is set concentrically, under a whitewashed ceiling that sweeps up into a vortex to allow sunlight to beam down directly upon the altar; the allusions in every detail to Neolithic sepulchral architecture (especially Newgrange) are fascinating and very atmospheric. The origins of the Grianan Ailigh (a mile up the hill from the church) date back to 1700 BC and it's thought to be linked to the Tuatha De Danann, pre-Celtic invaders. It was sufficiently significant to be included by Ptolemy, the Alexandrian geographer, in his second-century AD map of the world, and was the base of various northern Irish chieftains. Here in 450, St Patrick is said to have baptized Eoghan, the founder of the O'Neill clan which ruled the kingdom of Ailigh for more than 500 years. In the twelfth century the fort was sacked by Murtagh O'Brian, King of Thomond, in retribution for a raid on Clare, with the result that a large amount of its stone got carried away. Today's impressive building was largely reconstructed in the late nineteenth century and is the only remaining terraced fort in Ireland. It's enclosed by three earthen banks, but its most stunning asset is the view across the primordial jumble of mountains and hills far away to the west and the loughs to each side of Inishowen immediately to the north. You can discover more about the fort at the visitor centre (daily: June-Aug 10am-6pm; Sept-May noon-6pm; GBP2/?2.53), back on the main road towards Letterkenny, which also contains a superb, innovative restaurant (closes 10pm; tel 077/68512), serving Lough Neagh eels and wild boar.
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