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The tiny village of MUFF , just a few minutes' drive north of the international border, is not quite as moribund as it may at first appear. Carmans Inn has Irish music on a Wednesday and another place to try is The Flough , a traditional Irish cottage with sessions and dancing to match. There's a lively festival here on the first weekend in August. Lenamore Stables (tel 077/84022) offers riding and trekking in the vicinity and beyond. The countryside immediately around Muff is scattered with several interesting remains. Uphill from Muff in ISKAHEEN , opposite St Patrick's Church, a plaque in the wall of the ruined church in the graveyard marks the burial place of Eoghan, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages. Of greater antiquity is the Bronze Age Ardmore Gallan stone, a striking monument heavily carved with symbolic forms. There are forty small cup-dents and a large vertical valley down the middle of one face. To get to it, take a left off the Moville road about half a mile north of Muff, then up the lane at the side of the red-doored house; follow the road straight up, and turn right to the farmyard at the end. The stone is in the far side of the field in front of the yard. Also to be recommended is the fourteen-mile trip across the mountains through Grainne's Gap and on to Buncrana on the western side of the peninsula . There are spectacular views back down onto the Foyle estuary from the gap, and the inland scenery is all trickling burns, heathery boggy slopes lined with turf banks, and rocky granite outcrops.
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