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The peninsula north of Mizen, Sheep's Head , has an ancient feel to it: barren land almost entirely devoid of people. There are only a couple of tiny villages here, and traffic is sparse - the sole weekly bus runs on Saturday - so don't try to hitch if you're going to need to return in a hurry. It's an ever-changing landscape, where surges of harsh granite rise from sweet green fields, fuchsias and honeysuckle scramble over greystone walls, gorse and heather colour wild heathland, and at every twist of the road plantlife, rock and water fall together to describe some new magic ideal. Whichever way you head down to the Sheep's Head, the scenery is superb. The north coast looks down on the magnificent Bantry Bay, backed by the wild Caha Mountains and offers cyclists a wonderful descent towards Bantry. There are also fabulous panoramic views over County Cork, the Beara Peninsula, and County Kerry from the top of Seefin , Sheep's Head's highest hill (1136ft). All of this can now be enjoyed by walking the Sheep's Head Way a 55-mile circuit of the peninsula; it's relatively easy walking, clearly signposted, and marked on the Discovery Series OS map number 88. DURRUS , little more than a handful of pubs and shops at the head of the peninsula, is the largest village here. If you want to stay, try the pleasant B&B at Avoca House (tel 027/61511; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79); the Long Boat Bar nearby serves inexpensive meals . Dunbeacon campsite (tel 027/61246; wet-weather hut), is three miles back down the road towards Crookhaven, and is a relaxing, low-key affair. Midway down Sheep's Head, minuscule AHAKISTA has a narrow slip of sandy beach backed by a showering of trees. The Ahakista Bar serves soup and sandwiches and has a gorgeous lush beer garden that runs down to the water's edge. For directions to the only place selling basic provisions , ask at the bar. One and a half miles beyond the Ahakista is Reenmore B&B (tel 027/67051; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79). At KILCROHANE , three and a half miles southeast of Ahakista, there's a post office , a bar serving sandwiches, and basic accommodation at Carbery View Hostel (tel 027/67035). A summer cafe with erratic opening times can be found right at the end of the peninsula.
be theremike says "most fantastic and unspoilt area"
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