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Around nine miles north on the main road from Bantry and cradled between the Caha Mountains and Bantry Bay, GLENGARRIFF is an oasis of greenery. South-facing and sheltered by rugged mountains, it has a peculiarly gentle climate; oak and holly woodlands hug the shoreline while occasional palms flourish in hotel gardens. This picturesque juxtaposition has been exploited since the nineteenth century, when sensitive Victorians became alerted to the beneficial effects of the uniquely mild atmosphere in this pocket of lushness. Unfortunately, recent exploitation has resulted in a barrage of billboarding; ads for gift shops and boat trips have destroyed virtually all of the village's former character. Yet, despite the commercialism, Glengarriff is a great place to stay if you want to explore some of Cork's and Kerry's wildest and most beautiful countryside. The surrounding mountains are wonderfully rugged; huge areas of barren rock show odd patches of scrawny, rough vegetation, and then the occasional seam of brilliant deciduous woods. There is a real exhilaration up here as you watch the constantly changing patterns of weather over the mountains and the bay, with squalls of rain and pools of sunlight bowling across the landscape. Pick up a leaflet of suggested walks at the tourist office (June-Aug Mon-Sat 10am-1pm & 2.15-6pm; tel 027/63084) in the main street. They will also help with accommodation. Comfortable B&Bs include Conimar (tel 027/63405; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) and Rockwood House (tel 027/63097; GBP40-55/?50.79-69.84). For traditional hotel accommodation try Casey's (tel 027/63010; GBP55-70/?69.84-88.88) in the centre of the town. Murphy's (IHH; tel 027/63555) is a central, well-run and cheerful hostel ; if this is full, the tiny Hummingbird Rest Hostel (tel 027/63195), about half a mile along the road towards Kenmare, is a reasonable alternative. You can camp here, too, or at O'Shea's campsite (closed mid-Oct to mid-March; tel 027/63140), a beautiful little site, about a mile out of Glengarriff on the Castletownbere Road (R572). Places to eat are limited. Your best bets are the bars at Casey's Hotel and The Eccles Hotel or the cafe at Murphy's Hostel (closed Oct-April), which serves good-value wholesome lunches and snacks. Glengarriff's bars are very lively during July and August; there's usually music at The Blue Loo , Bernard Harrington's or Johnny Barry's .
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