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Clear Island ( Oilean Chleire ), also known as Cape Clear, offers a lot to do, and it would be worth visiting for the ferry trip alone, though it can be a topsy-turvy, stomach-churning ride. There's an important ornithology station here, and on the 45-minute boat ride out to the island, it becomes obvious that the place is paradise for wildlife enthusiasts: the bay is alive with seabirds - guillemots, cormorants, auks and storm petrels - and with luck you may see seals and, in warm weather, basking sharks. With even more luck you might find your boat raced by a playful dolphin or two, dodging around the bows and leaping out of the ocean to crash back down right alongside the ferry. The hilly, rocky island seems to have been pinched in the middle where two inlets, North Harbour and South Harbour , almost meet. In the south, steep and inaccessible cliffs rise from the water; the North Harbour is perfectly sheltered. Roads climb up from here through hills covered in the coarse grass that seems to spread over everything, including old walls and houses long derelict. Sea pinks cling to rocky outcrops, and honeysuckle clambers wherever it can. The island's high points give spectacular views back across the archipelago to the mainland. The bird observatory at North Harbour has been here since 1959 and has complete records going back to that time. When it was set up, by an amateur group, this station was a pioneer of the constant observation of seabirds, and its work has done much for the knowledge of migratory patterns. Clear Island is one of the most important places for seabirds in Ireland, including some genuine rarities - especially plentiful are storm petrels, shearwaters, black guillemots and choughs. If you are new to birdwatching, but fancy learning more, call in at the observatory and see what's happening, though bear in mind that late spring, August and October are the best times for birdwatching. Clear Island is also an isolated remnant of the Gaeltacht and Irish is still spoken by about one hundred and thirty islanders. During the summer, Irish youngsters are sent here to practise the language and each October the island holds a traditional festival of drama, music, art and dance, the Feile Shamhna Chleire (call 028/39153 for details). The island also prides itself on being the birthplace of St Kieran , who supposedly preceded St Patrick by thirty years, but the holy well and stone that are attributed to him stand in a sadly unromantic spot by the road at North Harbour. By far the best of Clear Island's historic ruins is Dun an Oir ("Fort of Gold"), an O'Driscoll fort, impressive on a high, narrow splinter of rock which is now an island at high tide - sadly inaccessible, though you can see it as you walk down the hill from the heritage centre, or from the 200ft cliffs to the south. The heritage centre (June-Aug daily 2-5.30pm; GBP1.50/?1.90), a steep, one-mile walk from North Harbour (follow the sign for the church), is a tiny museum of the whole domestic, fishing and seafaring history of the island. If you intend to stay anytime between July and October, you would be advised to arrange accommodation before sailing. There are a number of B&Bs : Cluain Mara , North Harbour (tel 028/39153; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) is good value and run by a friendly family; alternatively, you might try Ard na Gaoithe , the Glen, up the steep laneway behind the youth hostel (tel 028/39160; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), or, beyond here, Failte , at Glen East, up by the lighthouse (tel 028/39135; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79). The An Oige hostel at South Harbour (closed Dec-Feb; tel 028/39198) is fairly basic, but the staff are friendly and it does offers kayaking (GBP7/?8.89), archery (GBP6/?7.62) and snorkelling (GBP5/?6.35). Finally, there is self-catering accommodation at the bird observatory (book in advance, tel 028/39181, stevewing@eircom.com ; GBP9/?3.17), though this is likely to be full in late spring and in August and October. In summer, camping is available a short walk from the ferry terminal; if you bring food over from the mainland, bear in mind that the island has difficulties in dealing with refuse, so avoiding bringing (and leaving) glass and plastic containers is helpful. The island has three pubs within five minutes' walk of each other: The Club , beside North Harbour, where you may well find music in the summer months, The Night Jar , a short walk from here, and Ciaran Danny Mike's , just at the brow of the hill overlooking South harbour, which serves very good home-cooked meals and has a restaurant alongside. An siopa beag beside North Harbour is the island's one grocery store; inside is a coffee bar serving drinks, filled rolls and, in the evenings, takeaway pizzas.
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