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The approach to Baltimore takes you through a landscape that is disarmingly low-key. Instead of some dramatic climax at this, the most southerly point of all Ireland, the land seems simply to be fading away: rocky terrain and scrawny vegetation accompany the windy, listless estuary, untidy with lumps of land that seem to have been tossed at random towards the sea. The whole ragged effect is as if the country is running out of substance; the landmass, already moth-bitten, is now fraying, too. But as the ocean comes into full view this tailing off is put into spectacular context: the whole weight of Ireland is behind you, while ahead are dots, wracks and scraps of islands, petering out across the great open expanse of water to Sherkin and Clear islands .
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