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The coastline north of Kilkee is one of fine cliffs and sandy beaches, though not all of them are accessible. Those which are include Doonbeg, a relaxing spot where you might see seals and otters, and about a mile further north the beautiful White Strand - both of which are Blue Flag beaches and ideal for swimming. Doughmore beach near Quilty, about eight miles north of Doonbeg, is excellent for experienced surfers, though swimming is not advised here. Strand Camping (tel 065/905 5345) is a small family-run site located right by the beach at Doonbeg at the mouth of the Doonbeg River. The Victorian resort of MILTOWN MALBAY , eighteen miles north of Kilkee and situated some way inland, comes alive for the Willie Clancy Summer School, held here usually during the first or second week in July, when it's packed with traditional music enthusiasts from all over the world (and booking accommodation well in advance is essential). Clancy's and O'Friel's (also known as Lynch's ) bars are likely to be lively any time during the summer, and The Crosses of Annagh , about two miles south of Miltown Malbay on the road towards Mullagh, has excellent music sessions (Thurs summer; Sat year round). For B&B , there's An Gleann (tel 065/708 4281; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79) and Malone's (tel 065/708 4246; GBP26-33/?33.01-41.90), both on the Ennis road, or you could try The Station House (tel 065/708 4008; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), on the Lahinch road. Two and a half miles away you'll find an excellent sandy swimming beach at SPANISH POINT , so called because it was here that survivors from wrecked Armada ships swam ashore, only to be executed by the High Sheriff of Clare. It's a holiday spot for nuns, and appropriately enough has a very quiet campsite , Lahiff's Caravan and Camping Park (closed Oct-March; tel 065/708 4006). Other places to stay include Atlantic Star (tel 065/708 4782; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79), a spacious, modern B&B just across from the golf course on the main N67, and a couple of new hotels : Armada Hotel (tel 065/708 4110, www.iol.ie/~armada/index.htm ; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28) and the Bellbridge House Hotel (tel 065/708 4038; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28). To the east of Spanish Point, Slieve Callan rises beside the main road to Ennis. Taking this road you pass Knocknalassa, where there's an impressive wedge-shaped gallery grave, known as Diarmuid and Grainne's Bed (after the Irish version of the Tristan and Isolde story). It's quite tricky to find: five miles along the road from Miltown Malbay you will pass a house with a thatched little barn alongside; the grave is about half a mile further east from here, tucked out of sight behind a hummocky rise to the left of the road. Follow the cows - it's worth seeing.
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