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The west bank of Lough Derg is a seam of beautiful countryside set between bald, boggy mountains and the great expanse of the lake. It forms the county's eastern boundary and, isolated by the empty heights of the Slieve Bernagh and the Slieve Aughtie mountains, has a different character from the rest of Clare. The waterway's wealth of fish and bird life, and the quaint villages on either shore, have long made Lough Derg popular with a wealthy Lough-cruising set, whose exclusive brand of tourism means villages are fairly conservative and well kept. The hunting, shooting and fishing crowds are well catered for and tend to dominate the character of local pubs; but the historic town of Killaloe and the village of Mountshannon make attractive bases, offering accommodation, bars and opportunities for watersports. There are also pockets renowned for their traditional music sessions, notably the tiny villages of Feakle and Ogonnelloe, attracting predominantly local crowds. The main road north varies the scene, at times clinging to the lake shore, at others gaining higher ground and panoramic views over the lough, its islands and the mountains of Tipperary. It connects the historic, picturesque towns of Portumna in County Galway , at the head of the Lough, and Killaloe at its southerly tip, and laces together a handful of little villages. Access to the area is via Limerick. Bus Eireann runs a very limited service: from Limerick to Killaloe, Scarriff, Tuamgraney, (Mon to Sat only), Mountshannon and Whitegate (Sat only). For timetable information, phone Limerick tel 061/313333. Hitching isn't such a good idea in the Slieve Bernagh and Slieve Aughtie mountains to the west where roads are empty, and this isn't ideal cycling country either, as the roads are deceptively steep and unsheltered. However, if you are keen to cycle, you can arrange bike rental through Killaloe tourist office.
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