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Circling north round the Burren from Liscannor, you arrive almost immediately at the Cliffs of Moher . At their highest, they tower 660ft above the Atlantic, and standing on the headlands that jut over the sheer, ravaged cliffs with their great bands of shale and sandstone, you can feel the huge destructive power of the waves. At points, the battering of the water has left jagged stack rocks standing, continually lashed by white spume. Erosion is constant; during a storm some years ago a section of the cliff fell, taking a picnic table with it. The cliffs have to be seen - ideally on a summer evening, when the setting sun is full on them - but be prepared for the oppressively commercial visitor centre , where readily changed money and travellers' cheques are quickly spent on coffee, cakes and souvenirs. Do see the cliffs, though - you can soon walk away from the crowds in either direction, after checking there are no bulls in the field to the north. The cliffs actually stretch for five miles, from Hag's Head, just west of Liscannor, to a point beyond O'Brien's Tower - a superfluous viewing point with telescope - some four miles south of Doolin.
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