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Heading east from Kilfenora you pass Leamaneh Castle , a fifteenth-century O'Brien stronghold, adjoining which is a four-storey building with mullioned and transomed windows (circa 1640). The area north of here is littered with ancient remains. Take the Ballyvaughan road north at Leamaneh Castle and you will pass the Poulnabrone Dolmen , the most famous of the Burren's portal dolmens, dating from 2500 BC. It's a marvellous place at dusk, when the fading light turns the surrounding fields of stone a vibrant lilac. Alternatively, continue east from Leamaneh Castle and take the left turn north just before Killinaboy. The lane rises steeply through hazel hedgerows and brings you up to a limestone plateau. You will pass two signposted wedge tombs on your left and, after another mile or so, come to Caher Commaun , a ninth-century triple ring fort. You may have to pay a small fee to walk across the farmer's field. From here, you can wend your way north through a tangle of roads to minuscule CARRAN . The hamlet's prime feature is a turlough: in summer it appears as a meadow, in winter a lake. Overlooking the turlough are Clare's Rock , a comfortable new hostel (closed Oct-April; tel 065/708 9129), and Croide na boirne bar and restaurant (tel 065/708 9109), which serves probably the only Burren-themed bar food in the world. Look out for their speciality, burren mionain , organically reared kid. From Carran the road north leads down to Bell Harbour ( Bealaclugga ) and nearby Corcomroe .
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