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The tiny village of KILFENORA , about four miles southeast of Lisdoonvarna, is a great spot for traditional music and is renowned for its year-round music pubs: Linnane's and Vaughan's . Kilfenora's music festival, held over the October bank holiday weekend, is a wonderful and strictly traditional event. The village is also home to the much-publicized Burren Display Centre (April, May & Oct daily 10am-5pm; June-Sept daily 9.30am-6pm; GBP2.50/?3.17). The centre explains clearly the basic geography and geology of the Burren with the aid of a landscape model and a film. The tearoom makes a good refreshment stop. Next door stands Kilfenora Cathedral , certainly worth a visit for its high crosses, the finest of which is the twelfth-century Doorty Cross , showing three bishops and what is probably Christ's entry into Jerusalem, with beautiful Celtic patterning. Nearby in the churchyard are remains of two other twelfth-century high crosses, one near the northwest corner, one opposite the church door. Wander through the gateway behind the church and you'll see a fourth cross, with a decorated Crucifixion, in the field to the west. The cathedral itself was built in 1190 and altered in the fifteenth century. It has a roofless chancel with a finely carved triple-light east window and two effigies of bishops, possibly fourteenth century. For B&B , try Mrs Murphy's , Main St (tel 065/708 8040; GBP26-33/?33.01-41.90). Alternatively, you can stay at The Cottage Hostel , Lissylisheen, four and a half miles north of here - it's tricky to find so ask locally for directions. It's a small, charming place and also offers camping (tel 086/801 5566).
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