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There are just a few reasons for pushing six miles northeast of Monaghan to the eerie, chill-grey village of GLASLOUGH , and the best of these is Castle Leslie (tel 047/88109; over GBP130/?165.07), a gormenghastian aristocratic pile, crammed with fabulous antiques. Book in and you leave the twenty-first century behind: there are no phones, TVs, or room service, just wonderfully relaxed hospitality and a sense of fading splendour. Previous guests have included Yeats, George Moore, Winston Churchill and Mick Jagger. If an overnight stay is beyond your budget, you can sample some of the atmosphere if you book in for dinner (around GBP30/?38.09). Back in the village, The Olde Bar is a tiny place, similarly seemingly unchanged for decades, open Thursdays and Saturdays only. B&B accommodation is available at the Greystone Equestrian Centre (tel 047/88100; GBP70-90/?88.88-114.28), a large Victorian house on the Castle Leslie estate, and at the Pillar House Hotel (tel 047/88125; GBP33-40/?41.90-50.79).
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