Eating and Drinking
Eating in Reykjavik is expensive, although there are ways to reduce costs a little. Naturally, self-catering is the least costly of all, and the best supermarkets in the city centre include: 10-11, close to the Austurvollur square at Austurstraeti 17, which, true to its name, is open from 10am until 11pm; the larger Bonus, at Laugavegur 59; and the best-stocked and largest supermarket in the country, Nykaup, in the Kringlan shopping centre, at the junction of Miklabraut and Kringlumyrarbraut and reached either on foot in about forty minutes or by taking bus #6 from the city centre. If you're looking to buy booze simply to take away, the ATVR alcohol shops are at Austurstraeti 10a (Mon-Thurs 11am-6pm, Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-2pm); and on the lower level of the Kringlan shopping centre (Mon-Thurs 11am-6pm, Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-2pm). Supermarkets are also the best source of breakfast if your accommodation isn't providing any, since cafes generally don't open until around 10am - closing time is variable. Otherwise, expect to pay through the nose for it at one of the city's hotels, reckoning on at least 700kr a head for an extensive buffet selection of cold fish, smoked meats, toast, jam, cereals and coffee. For coffee and snacks during the day, use any of the numerous cafes dotted around, many of which mutate into bars from 6pm onwards, though this will leave a serious hole in your pocket - expect to pay around 1000kr per head for a cup of coffee, a sandwich and a cake. For a half-litre of beer be prepared to pay around 500kr. For full meals, many restaurants offer lunch specials from 11.30am to 2.30pm. These may be either set dishes or help-yourself buffets costing around 1100kr - look out for " tilbodsrettir " or "tourist menu" either posted up in the window or on a display board outside. These generally include a starter such as soup, a meat or fish dish, followed by coffee. If your budget stretches to it (upwards of 3000kr a head), however, you can dine in style in small, atmospheric and high-quality restaurants, though you'll often need to make a reservation for Friday or Saturday evenings in summer, and dress fairly smartly. Most open for dinner around 6.30pm or 7pm and stay open until midnight or 1am on weekday evenings and Sundays, extending their hours until around 3am on Friday and Saturday evenings. There are some decent restaurants around the city serving international cuisines, such as Mexican or Mediterranean, though they're no cheaper than the Icelandic ones and are usually of a poorer standard, though a few do surprise. If you're longing for a curry, you'll only be disappointed - Indian food is bland in the extreme, aimed at the Icelandic palate, which has yet to come to grips with lots of spices. There are also a number of similarly priced fast-food outlets serving burgers and pizzas, but none is particularly cheap: the McDonald's in Reykjavik, for example, is one of the most expensive of its kind in the world.
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