When the hillsides start to plunge and the river twists, keep your eyes fixed on the mountains to the west for a first glimpse of the citadel and ramparts of VISEGRAD , 23km north of Szentendre. The citadel is almost as it appeared to Janos Thuroczy in 1488, who described its "upper walls stretching to the clouds floating in the sky, and the lower bastions reaching down as far as the river". At that time, courtly life in Visegrad, the royal seat, was nearing its apogee, and the palace of King Matyas and Queen Beatrice was famed throughout Europe. The papal legate Cardinal Castelli described it as a "paradiso terrestri", seemingly unperturbed by the presence of Vlad the Impaler, who resided here under duress between 1462 and 1475.
Tucked in between the hills and the river as the Danube flows north, Visegrad is a compact town, with most local activity centred around the ferry and the church. The three main historical sites all lie north of the centre: the Royal Palace and Solomon's Tower down near the river, and the citadel perching on top of the hill above. All
the river sites are in easy walking distance, but you might prefer taking a bus up to the citadel if the climb is too forbidding. While here, you can also visit the surrounding Visegrad Hills , boasting gorgeous views, and providing an unexpected but appropriate setting for several works by the visionary architect Imre Makovecz. Though the ruins can be visited on a flying visit, the hills require a full day and a fair amount of walking, with the option of longer hikes or pony-trekking.
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