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At ZEBEGENY , 5km further along the bank of the river from Nagymaros, where the Danube turns south, the excellent light and the magnificent view of the Bend have lured painters for years. Most of this exceptionally pretty village lies to the east of the rail tracks. From Route 12 you pass under the train station and immediately come to the distinctive Catholic Church (1908-14), the only one in Hungary to be built in the National Romantic style, an amalgam of Art Nouveau and folk art, designed by Karoly Kos. Inside, frescoes by Aladar Korosfoi Kriesch depict Emperor Constantine's vision of finding the Holy Cross in Jerusalem with his mother, St Helena. Five minutes' walk behind the church over the stream and down to the right brings you to one of Zebegeny's curiosities, the so-called Museum of Navigation and Seafaring People at Szonyi utca 9 (April-Oct daily 9am-6pm; 400Ft), housing the bizarre private collection of Captain Vince Farkas, who has sailed the world and amassed some nifty carved figureheads in the process (though how tigers and totem poles fit in is a puzzle). Following Szonyi utca for another ten minutes brings you Bartoky Jozsef utca, where at no. 7 you'll find the memorial house and studio of one of Zebegeny's best-known artists, Istvan Szonyi, who died in 1960 (March-Oct Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; Nov-Feb Fri-Sun 10am-4pm; 200Ft). Szonyi first began to paint here, and the house hosts an international art school every summer. If you're looking to stay , there are several Zimmer frei ten minutes' walk past the church along Kossuth utca. Five minutes further on, over the stream to the left, is the Malomkerek Vendegfogado at Malom utca 21, (tel 27/373-010, www.malomkerek.tsx.org ; 3000-5000Ft), which also acts as the information office for the village; the guesthouse has a couple of apartments and a pool and you can also rent bicycles and canoes. Twenty minutes' walk further on, right at the edge of the village, the Almaskert Pension at Almaskert utca 13 (tel 27/373-037; 3000-5000Ft) has balconied rooms overlooking a silky lawn. If the prospect of a room directly overlooking the river appeals, five minutes' walk from the church (under the railway, left on the main road, left and then first right) brings you to cheap rooms at Tancsics Mihaly utca 2 (tel 27/373-255; under 3000Ft). There is a more luxurious option 1km to the south at the modern Kenderes Hotel on Dozsa Gyorgy ut 26 (tel & fax 27/373-444, kenderes@dunawe b.hu ; 5000-10,000Ft), where rooms have a bathroom, television and safe; you can also rent water-sport equipment and use the sauna and swimming pool. The restaurants in the Almaskert and Kenderes are the best places to eat , the latter serving some Balkan and Transylvanian dishes. Nagymaros and Szob are the nearest alternatives for accommodation, or you could take the ferry across to Pilismarot on the west bank to stay at Domos, Esztergom or Visegrad.
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