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Twenty kilometres west from Vac along the bank of the Danube, NAGYMAROS , the home of nobles in the age of royal Visegrad, is a quietly prosperous village with an air of faded grandeur - an unlikely focus for years of environmental protest. The cause is not Nagymaros itself, where a drunk's ejection from an italbolt (local bar) counts as a major disturbance, but a short way upriver, where extensive environmental landscaping has been employed over the remains of the aborted dam . The village lies across the river from Visegrad, with a superb view of the latter's citadel: "Visegrad has the castle, but Nagymaros has the view", as the locals have always boasted. The railway line cuts the village firmly in two: above the line, whitewashed houses straggle up the hillside, while below is the main road, and beyond that the river and ferry to Visegrad. From the Nagymaros-Visegrad Station, duck under the bridge and walk past the Matyas Kiraly Restaurant to the main road, Vaci utca; 100m to the right is the leafy main square, Fo ter. At the bottom of the square, across the main road, is the ferry, while at the top, on the other side of the rail line, is a Gothic church, parts of which date back to 1509. After 1500m, the path divides at a car park - one fork heads south to Hegyes-teto, where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Bend , while the other heads up into the Borzsony , towards Torokmez, a five-kilometre walk away along a footpath marked with red signs. Private accommodation in Nagymaros is best found on the spot by wandering the streets in search of Zimmer frei signs. Alternatively, you can stay at the Feketesas Udvarhaz (tel & fax 27/354-045, www.hotels.hu/feketesas ; 10,000-14,000Ft), a magnificently kitsch hotel and restaurant complex just north of the ferry station, complete with garden gnomes, tinkling waterfalls and a view of the Visegrad Castle opposite; or you can head up through the beech woods to the Torokmezo Hostel (tel 27/350-63; under 3000Ft). For food , try the Feketesas , whose garden restaurant backs onto the river bank, or the Matyas Kiraly Restaurant on Magyar utca, near the train station, which serves goulash soups and poultry dishes. Both are open daily till 10pm.
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