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From Nagy Hideg Hegy, a trail marked by blue squares leads westwards to NAGYBORZSONY , 20km north from Szob. Alternatively you can get there by bus from Szob and make this your starting point for walking east. A wealthy town during the Middle Ages, Nagyborzsony declined with the depletion of its copper, gold and iron mines in the eighteenth century, and is now a mere logging village with an overdose of churches - four in all. The walled thirteenth-century Romanesque Church of St Stephen , on the left as you enter the village, was left stranded as the cemetery chapel when the village moved closer to the mines in the fifteenth century. If you are walking from the centre of the village, stop in at Petofi utca 17 en route to ask for the gigantic church key, as the church is normally closed. Just across the road from the house is the Gothic Miners' Church , some of whose features have survived later alterations; again, if the church is closed, ask at Petofi utca 17. Just below the church, an exhibition of folk costumes, home furnishings and mining accessories can be found at the Mining Museum at Petofi utca 19 (Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; 100Ft), with explanations in Hungarian and German only, but you get the general feel anyway. Just up from the main square, where the bus terminus is located, you will find the village's still-working watermill along to the left by the stream (Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; 60Ft). For accommodation , there are basic doubles (shared bathrooms) above the Butella Borozo (tel 27/378-035; 3000-5000Ft), just above the main road near the Romanesque church; or a ten-minute walk along the track past the wine bar leads down to the Nagyborzsony Kozseg Vendeghaza , by a fishing lake - a rather out-of-the-way site where you can get a room (tel 27/377-450; 3000-5000Ft). Otherwise it is worth asking in the village about private rooms. The other trail from Nagy Hideg Hegy (marked with a blue horizontal line) runs south down to KOSPALLAG , another prosaic village, notable only as a place to catch buses to Vac (six daily; last bus at 3pm). However, pursuing the path onwards, things improve beyond the Vac-Szob road junction below the village, where the path wanders through beech woods to a lovely open meadow graced with a solitary tree and the first view of the Danube. Cutting southwest across the meadow puts you back on the path to the Torokmezo Hostel . The path divides by the exercise camp in the woods, and heading west along the path marked with green signs you come down to Zebegeny (5km). Alternatively you can head on another 4km along the blue path, past the hostel, to a car park at the junction of paths to Hegyes-teto (Hilly Peak) and Nagymaros. If you take the road from Kospallag to Szob, you come to MARIANOSZTRA , a place of pilgrimage 9km from Szob and served by hourly buses. These pilgrimages take place on the second Sunday in May, and on the Sundays preceding August 15 and September 14. The Baroque church in the centre of the village (now in the courtyard at the entrance of a men's prison) dates from 1360, and retains some original fragments. One curiosity is the copy of the Black Czestochowa Madonna , the original of which was taken to Poland in 1382 by Hungarian monks sent to found the monastery there. An hour's walk north from the village takes you to Kopasz hegy (Bald Hill) which affords some of the best views in the region.
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