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The Borzsony range , squeezed between the Danube and Slovakia, sees few visitors despite its scattering of hostels and forest footpaths, and the abundance of rabbits, pheasants and deer watched only by circling eagles. It's feasible to camp rough here, though most of the places we've covered offer some form of accommodation. Would-be walkers should buy Cartographia's Borzsony-hegyseg map of the hills (available at the Tourinform office in Vac or from map shops), which shows paths and the location of hostels ( turistahaz ). Mount Csovanyos (939m) is the highest peak in the Borzsony, and also the most challenging. Hikers usually approach it from the direction of DIOSJENO , a sleepy mountain village that's accessible by bus or train from Vac. Diosjeno's campsite (tel 35/364-134; May-Sept), at Petofi Sandor utca 55, lies just over 1km from the village and 2km from the train halt, and its small stock of rooms (3000-5000Ft) can be reserved direct or through Nograd Tourist in Salgotarjan, in the Northern Uplands. Six kilometres further up the road towards Kemence, there is a pension (tel 27/365-139; 3000-5000Ft) and riding school (same tel ; 1500Ft for 1hr) at KIRALYHAZA ; the road runs along a delightful wooded valley, but there is no bus from Diosjeno. An alternative route into the mountains begins at Kismaros, 12km up the Danube from Vac. From here narrow-gauge trains trundle to KIRALYRET (April-Oct 5 daily; Nov-March 4 daily Sat & Sun only), with connecting trains to and from Budapest from the main line station across the road. Close to the station is the Fovarosi Onkormanyzat Uduloje , a hostel with cheap beds (tel 27/375-033; under 3000Ft), and you can eat cheaply at the local restaurant. Supposedly once the hunting ground of Beatrice and Matyas, this "Royal Meadow" has paths going in several directions. One trail, marked in green, goes across to the village of Nograd with its ruined castle, 5km from Diosjeno on the Diosjeno-Vac railway line. Another, marked in red, leads to the Magas-Tax peak about ninety minutes' walk away, with another cheap hostel, the Magas Tax Turistahaz (tel 60/346-150; under 3000Ft). The path goes on to the "Big Cold" peak, Nagy Hideg Hegy , which has excellent views, and branches out to Mount Csovanyos and the villages of Nagyborzsony and Kospallag; use the Borzsony-hegyseg map to guide you.
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