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Beyond the Oktogon





A minute's walk past the Oktogon on the left-hand side, Andrassy ut 60 was once the most terrifying address in Budapest - the headquarters of the secret police . Jews and other victims of the Arrow Cross were tortured here during World War II, and the AVO later used the building for the same purpose. When it was captured by insurgents in 1956, no trace was found of the giant meat-grinder rumoured to have been used to dispose of corpses. The building is currently being renovated and may eventually contain an exhibition about its history; the exterior already has several memorial plaques affixed in the 1990s, including one for Cardinal Mindszenty.

A little further on the opposite side, the Old Music Academy at no. 67 harbours the Liszt Memorial Museum ( Liszt Ferenc Emlekmuzeum ; Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm; closed in Aug; 250Ft), entered from around the corner at Vorosmarty utca 35, where the composer lived from 1881 until his death in 1886. His glass piano and travelling keyboard are the highlights of an extensive collection of memorabilia and scores. Concerts are performed here by young pianists every Sunday at 11am (250Ft). Another great Hungarian composer lends his name to the Kodaly korond (named Hitler ter during World War II), one of Budapest's most elegant squares, flanked by four neo-Renaissance mansions (one with gilt sgraffiti). At no. 1 on the northeast corner, the flat where Kodaly lived until his death in 1967, is now the Kodaly Memorial Museum (Wed 10am-4pm, Thurs-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 10am-2pm; 80Ft), preserving his library, salon, dining room and folk-art collection.

Two fine collections of Asian art lurk just beyond the korond. The Gyorgy Rath Museum (Tues-Sun: April-Oct 10am-6pm; Nov-March 10am-4pm; 300Ft) displays lovely artefacts from all the

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great civilizations, in an Art Nouveau villa at Varosligeti fasor 12 - reached via Bajza utca - whose garden contains a statue of the Hungarian Orientalist Korosi-Csoma, as a Buddhist monk. By contrast, the Ferenc Hopp Museum (same hours and price) at Andrassy ut 103 is devoted to whimsical Japanese netsuke figures carved in wood or ivory. From here, the final stretch of Andrassy ut up to Hosok tere is lined by spacious villas set back from the avenue, mostly housing embassies.


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11/22/2008 5:32:29 AM

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