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Along Ulloi ut





Don't bother with Ulloi ut unless you have a particular destination in mind, since this grimy thoroughfare of ponderous Neoclassical blocks runs for miles out to the airport. Fortunately, its principal attraction is only one block back from the Ferenc korut metro stop, at the junction with the Nagykorut.

The Applied Arts Museum ( Iparmuveszeti Muzeum ; Tues-Sun: mid-March to Oct 10am-6pm; Nov to mid-March 10am-4pm; 500Ft) is worth a visit purely to see the building by Odon Lechner, who strove to create a uniquely Hungarian form of architecture emphasizing the Magyars' Ugric roots. Topped by a huge green and yellow dome, its portico adorned with Turkish motifs on a yolk-coloured background, the museum's pure white interior is reminiscent of Moghul architecture (it was once thought that the Magyars came from India). A fine show of Arts and Crafts since medieval times is surpassed by Style 1900 , devoted to the movement known as Art Nouveau, Jugendstil or Secessionist, with a superb collection ranging from William Morris wallpaper to stained-glass panels by Hungarian masters like Jozsef Rippl-Ronai and Miksa Roth. The museum's hoard of furniture from other epochs is on show in the Nagyteteny Castle Museum.

Beyond the Nagykorut, on

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the right-hand side of Ulloi ut, stands the former Kilian Barracks , whose garrison was the first to join the 1956 insurgents. As the Uprising spread, it became the headquarters of Colonel Pal Maleter and teams of teenage guerrillas, who sallied forth from the alleys surrounding the Corvin Cinema on the other side of the road to lob Molotov cocktails at Soviet tanks. Since the fall of Communism they have been honoured by a statue of a young insurgent outside the cinema.


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11/22/2008 5:53:43 PM

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