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Ferencvaros and beyond





The Ferencvaros (Francis Town), or IX district, was built to house workers in the 1880s and remains the most working-class of Budapest's inner suburbs, with tenements that are swelteringly hot in the summer. During the 1930s and 1940s its population confounded Marxist orthodoxy by voting for extreme right parties that returned the favour by supporting the local football team FTC - popularly known as " Fradi " - which became the unofficial team of the opposition under Communism and is nowadays known for its racist "ultras", hardcore hooligan supporters. The club's green and white colours can be seen throughout the district.

Initially, Ferencvaros takes its tone from two institutions on Vamhaz korut , the section of the Kiskorut that separates it from the Belvaros. The wrought-iron Great Market Hall ( Nagycsarnok ; Mon 6am-5pm, Tues-Fri 6am-6pm, Sat 6am-2pm) is as famous for its ambience as for its produce, with tanks of live fish downstairs and stalls festooned with strings of paprika at the back, where former British prime minister Mrs Thatcher once endeared herself by haggling during a visit. Nearer the Danube, the Economics University (named

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after Karl Marx during Communist times) makes a fine sight at night, reflected in the river, and adds to the liveliness of the area by day. The building was originally Budapest's main Customs House ( Vamhaz ) - hence the name of the korut. On the Belvaros side of the boulevard, a freestanding section of the medieval walls of Pest can be found in the courtyard of no. 16. Everything else of interest in the district is too far away to walk, but readily accessible by public transport.


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11/22/2008 6:25:02 PM

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