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If the crowds on Vaci utca deter you, head down Kristof ter towards Szervita ter - named after the eighteenth-century Servite Church , but mainly distinguished by two buildings on the left-hand side of the street. No. 3 has a gable adorned with a superb Secessionist mosaic of Patrona Hungaria (Our Lady of Hungary) flanked by shepherds and angels, one of the finest works of Miksa Roth, while the Rozsavolgyi Building , next door, was built a few years later by the "father" of Hungarian Modernism, Bela Lajta; his earlier association with the National Romantic school is evident from the majolica decorations on its upper storeys. On the ground floor is the Rozsavolgyi music shop, one of the best in the city. Equally striking, but rather less attractive, is the MATAV phone, fax and email centre at the top of Petofi utca , which runs down to Ferenciek tere parallel to Vaci utca. Petofi utca has none of the glamour and all the traffic, but you may be lured by its array of music shops or need to visit the Central Post Office (no. 13). At the corner of Ferenciek tere and Petofi utca, you'll find the Parizsi Udvar , a flamboyantly eclectic shopping arcade. Completed in 1915, its fifty naked figures above the third floor were deemed incompatible with its intended role as a savings bank. The old deposit hall now houses an Ibusz office, while the arcade is as dark as an Andalucian mosque and twice as ornate.
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