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Three metro lines, two segments of the Kiskorut and several important avenues meet at Deak ter and Erzsebet ter - two squares that merge into one another (making local addresses extremely confusing) to form a jumping-off point for the V, VI and VII districts. You'll recognize the area by two landmarks: the enormous mustard-coloured Anker Palace on the Kiskorut, and the Lutheran Church by the metro pavilion on the edge of the Belvaros, which regularly hosts free concerts, including Bach's St John Passion over the fortnight before Easter. Next door, the Lutheran Museum ( Evangelikus Muzeum ; Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; 300Ft) displays a facsimile of Martin Luther's last will and testament, and a copy of the first book printed in Hungarian, a New Testament from 1541. Accessible via the upper sub-level of Deak ter metro, the Underground Railway Museum ( Foldalattivasut Muzeum ; Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; 120Ft or one BKV ticket) extols the history of Budapest's original metro. Its genesis was a treatise proposing a steam-driven tram network starting with a route along Andrassy ut; an underground line was suggested as a fallback in case the overground option was rejected. Completed in under two years, in time for the Millennial Exhibition, it was inaugurated by Emperor Franz Josef and bore his name until 1918. The exhibits include two elegant wooden carriages (one used until 1973) and period fixtures and posters that enhance the museum's nostalgic appeal. More recent excavations have been less successful. Just north of Deak ter, workers toil in a vast pit that was intended for the foundations of a new National Theatre, until the project was blocked by the prime minister to spite Budapest's mayor. Scathingly dubbed the "National Hole", it is now set to become an underground car park and conference centre, with a park on the surface - whereupon the Erzsebet ter bus station will move to Nepliget, and the terminal building will be converted into an architectural museum - but until this happens, it remains the departure point for city coach tours and international services.
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