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The Belvaros (or Inner City) is the hub of Pest and, for tourists at least, the epicentre of what's happening - abuzz with pavement cafes, buskers, boutiques and nightclubs. Commerce and pleasure have been its lifeblood as long as Pest has existed, as a medieval market town or the kernel of a city whose belle epoque rivalled Vienna's. After their fates diverged, the Belvaros lagged far behind Vienna's Centrum in prosperity; in the last decade the gap has been superficially effaced by capitalism, but some of the old atmosphere lingers in the quieter backstreets south of Kossuth utca. The Kiskorut (Small Boulevard) that surrounds the Belvaros follows the course of the medieval walls of Pest, showing how compact it was before the phenomenal expansion of the nineteenth century swept the city far beyond its original boundaries. Within the Belvaros there's little that's older than the eighteenth century, as the "liberation" of Pest by the Habsburgs left it in ruins. First-time visitors are struck by the statues, domes and mosaics on the skyline of Neoclassical and Art Nouveau piles, reflected in the mirrored banks and luxury hotels that symbolize the post-Communist era.
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