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Tabans Turkish baths





In the sedater reaches of the Taban below Varhegy, the Semmelweis Medical Museum at Aprod utca 1-3 (Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm; 150Ft) honours the "saviour of mothers", Ignac Semmelweis (1815-65). He discovered the cause of puerperal fever (a form of blood poisoning contracted in childbirth) and a simple method for preventing the disease, which until then was usually fatal: the sterilization of instruments and the washing of hands with carbolic soap. Inside are displayed medical instruments through the ages, including such curios as a chastity belt. The small insignificant stones in the park behind the museum are in fact Turkish burial markers.

An even better reason to come to the Taban, though, is to visit its Turkish baths, where you can immerse yourself in history. The relaxing and curative effects of Buda's mineral springs have been appreciated for two thousand years. The Romans built splendid bathhouses at Aquincum, to the north of Buda, and, while these declined with the empire, interest revived after the Knights of St John built a hospice on the site of the present Rudas Baths, near where St Elizabeth cured lepers in the springs below Gellert-hegy. However, it was the Turks who consolidated the habit of bathing - as Muslims, they were obliged to wash five times daily in preparation for prayer - and constructed proper bathhouses which function to this day.

Two lie at the southern end of the Taban by the Buda bridgehead of the Erzsebet hid. Tucked under the main road that leads up the hill away from the bridge, Hegyalja ut, the Rac Baths (Mon-Sat 6.30am-7pm; 600Ft) retain an octagonal stone pool from Turkish times, but were otherwise rebuilt in the last century. The sulphurous water (40°C) is considered good for skin complaints and conditions affecting the joints. There are separate admission days for women (Mon, Wed & Fri) and men (Tues, Thurs & Sat). Heading on towards the Rudas Baths, you pass the Ivocsarnok (Water Hall) below the road to the Erzsebet Bridge - drinking water from three nearby springs is sold here (Mon, Wed & Fri 11am-6pm, Tues & Thurs 7am-2pm).

The men-only Rudas Baths (Mon-Fri 6am-7pm, Sat & Sun 6am-1pm; 700Ft), south of the Erzsebet hid, are outwardly nondescript, but the interior has hardly changed since it was constructed in 1556 on the orders of Pasha

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Sokoli Mustapha. Tselebi called this place the "bath with green pillars", and these columns can still be seen today. Bathers wallow in an octagonal stone pool with steam billowing around the shadowy recesses and shafts of light pouring in from the star-shaped apertures in the domed ceiling. To the left of the entrance is a swimming pool, open to both sexes (Mon-Fri 6am-6pm, Sat & Sun 6am-1pm; 600Ft). See "Clubs and dancing" for details of the monthly dance party held here.


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11/22/2008 6:02:50 PM

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