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The section of Obuda around Fo ter blends gaudy Baroque with modern art and overpriced gastronomy, within a minute's walk of the Arpad hid HEV stop. At Szentlelek ter 1, the former Zichy mansion now contains the Kassak Museum (Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; 150Ft), dedicated to the Hungarian constructivist Lajos Kassak. Next door is the Vasarely Museum (Tues-Sun 10am-5.30pm; 150Ft), displaying eyeball-throbbing Op Art paintings by Viktor Vasarely, one of the founders of the genre. On cobbled Fo ter, just around the corner, you'll find the swanky Sipos Halaszkert and Postakocsi restaurants. Whatever the weather, there are always several figures sheltering beneath umbrellas nearby: life-sized sculptures by Imre Varga, whose oeuvre is the subject of the Varga Museum at Laktanya utca 7 (Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; 250Ft). His sheet-metal, iron and bronze effigies of famous persons are full of pathos or humour. Although the largest site lies further out in the Romai-Furdo district, Obuda does have several excavated ruins to show for its past. The finest of them is the weed-choked, crumbling amphitheatre ( amfiteatrum ) at the junction of Nagyszombat and Pacsirtamezo utca, that once seated up to 16,000 spectators. The amphitheatre can be reached by bus #86 (from Batthyany ter or anywhere along the embankment), or by walking 400m north from Kolosy ter (near the Szepvolgyi ut HEV stop). From here, you can continue on to Florian ter and the Hercules Villa (see below) by bus #6 or #86. While you're in the area, sample two patisseries renowned for their ice creams: Veress , on the corner of Bokor utca leading south from the amphitheatre; and Daubner , up on Szepvolgyi ut, which leads towards the hills and caves. Two kilometres north of the ampitheatre at Florian ter, graceful Roman columns stand incongruously amid a shopping plaza and the legionary baths lurk beneath the Szentendrei ut flyover. From here it's a ten-minute walk to the remains of the Hercules Villa (Tues-Sun: May-Sept 10am-6pm; late April & Oct 10am-5pm; 100Ft), sheltered by three canopies behind a block of flats at Meggyfa utca 19-21. The villa's name derives from the third-century mosaic floor beneath the largest canopy. Originally composed of 60,000 stones carefully selected and arranged in Alexandria, it depicts Hercules about to vomit at a wine festival. Another mosaic portrays the centaur Nessus abducting Deianeira, whom Hercules had to rescue as one of his twelve labours.
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