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Arriving at the city of VOLOS gives little hint of Pilio's promise. It's hard to imagine the mythological past of this busy modern port, but this is the site of ancient Iolkos, from where Jason and the Argonauts set off on their quest for the Golden Fleece. One of Greece's fastest-growing industrial centres and a major depot for long-distance truck drivers, Volos was rebuilt in utilitarian style after a series of devastating earthquakes between 1947 and 1957, and is now edging to its natural limits against the Pilio foothills behind. This admitted, it's a lively place with a large university-student population, beginning to revel in recently acquired prosperity, and you could do worse than spend a few hours or even a night here while waiting for a bus up the mountain or a boat to Skiathos, Skopelos or Alonissos, for which Volos is the main port . The most attractive place to linger is along the eastern waterfront esplanade, between the landscaped Platia Yeoryiou and the archeological museum, which is itself a highly recommended diversion. Imaginatively laid out and clearly labelled in English, the Archeological Museum (Tues-Sun 8.30am-2.30pm; ?1.50) features a unique collection of painted Hellenistic grave stelae depicting, in now-faded colours, the everyday scenarios of fifth-century BC life, as well as a variety of graves complete with skeletons. It also has one of the best European collections of Neolithic pottery, tools and figurines, from the local sites of Sesklo and Dimini (both of which - respectively 15km and 3km west of Volos - can be visited). Sesklo remains of essentially specialist interest, but since the 1990s ancient Dimini (open Tues-Sun, no fixed hours; ?1.50) has emerged as something of a local attraction, with the circuit of Neolithic walls clean and labelled, plus two fairly intact Mycenaean tholos -type tombs. Adjacent to the site, and still closed for excavations, is a large Mycenaean palace complex which some think may actually be ancient Iolkos. Along with Larissa, Halkidha and Ioannina, Volos was historically home to one of the larger Jewish communities of central Greece. Local Jews were well integrated into the social and political life of the town, such that during World War II only 155 out of the thousand-strong community were caught and murdered by the Nazis; the rest joined the resistance or were otherwise hidden on Mount Pilio. The victims have a prominent, sculpted memorial in one corner of Platia Riga Fereou, donated by one of the survivors.
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