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LARISSA stands at the heart of the Thessalian plain: a large market centre approached across a prosperous but dull landscape of wheat and corn fields. It is also a major garrison town: army camps surround it, the airport remains reserved for use by the Greek Air Force, and the Thessalonian writer Yorgos Ioannou, rusticated here in 1958 as a teacher, slammed Larissa as an "arrogant, nouveau-riche provincial town full of horrific army officers and their majestic wives". The southwestern part of the city - for such it is now, with nearly half a million inhabitants - is dominated by ranks of military housing, and a particularly nasty piece of graffiti by the north-south through road ("A bullet in the head for every Turk") would seem to suggest that international peace and friendship is not uppermost on everyone's minds here. Despite such unpromising impressions, undeniably modern and unremarkable Larissa retains a few old streets that hint at its less recent past as ancient/Byzantine Larissa, and later an Ottoman provincial capital called Yenisehir. The highest point of the town - the ancient acropolis of Ayios Ahillios - is dominated by the remains of a medieval kastro (closed to the public) and the foundations of an ancient Athena temple . Just south and below are the excavated and fairly impressive remains of the ancient theatre . Further south in the flatlands, the city centre consists of a pair of landscaped squares (Sapka and Makariou), connected by pedestrianized streets lined with the usual upmarket boutiques. Save an hour for the archeological museum at 31-Avgoustou 2 (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; free), with its fascinating collection of Neolithic finds and grave stelae . The modern Greek paintings in the pinakothiki (Tues-Sun 10.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm, Sat & Sun am only; ?0.40), at Roosevelt 59, are considered second only to those in the National Gallery in Athens. Otherwise, the Alkazar park beside the Pinios, Thessaly's major river, remains relatively cool throughout the summer, when Larissa as a whole bakes. As a major road and rail junction , the town has efficient connections with most places you'd want to reach: Volos to the east; Trikala and Kalambaka to the west; Lamia to the south; the Vale of Tembi, Mount Olympus and Thessaloniki along the national highway to the northeast. The main KTEL is on Yeoryiadhou, about 200m east of the acropolis, but all buses towards Trikala leave from a substation on Iroon Polytekhniou southwest of the centre, near the military housing, and a few other random services use a third stop on Ptolemeou, opposite the train station , 1km southeast of the central plazas. You probably won't need or choose to stay in Larissa, but if you do there are numerous, often pricey hotels . Among a trio of D-class places in the square by the train station, the Pantheon (tel 0410/236 726; ?24-33) is probably the most appealing. More central, savoury options, also handy for the main KTEL station, include the Lido at Ifestou 2 (tel 0410/255 097; ?34-42), more or less opposite the ancient theatre, or the Acropole nearby, towards the river at Venizelou 142 (tel 0410/536 315; ?24-58). For a bit more comfort, the Adonis on Alekou Papagouli 8A (tel 0410/534 648; ?43-58) is fine, its underground garage a blessing in a town with difficult parking. As so often in untouristed parts of the mainland, eating is more apt to be rewarding than staying. By far the best lunch stop is Tsipouradhiko To Spitaki , 3km northeast in the suburb refugee village of Yiannouli (#17 or #9 city bus). At no. 45 (west side) of the through road, it's the sort of place where local business- and tradesmen drink the afternoon away, but everyone's welcome and the fare - strong on seafood - is some of the best on the mainland: toursi (pickled vegetables) and salt herring included with your karafaki, tyrokafteri , fried vegetable slivers, butterflied fresh sardines in herbs, lemon and oil, plus a house sweet for about ?11. Back in town, the kultura taverna niche is occupied by Rodhi (daily except Sun/Mon lunch), on a little alley just off Filellinon on the acropolis hill, where carefully presented mayirefta will run ?15 and up. It's the only real eatery along pedestrianized Filellinon, home to much of Larissa's after-dark bar and cafe life. Trendy daytime cafes are on Platia Makariou, which features several fountains, flowerbeds and statues, plus tables shaded by smart white umbrellas.
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