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Beyond Alonissos- some minor islets





Northeast of Alonissos, half a dozen tiny islets speckle the Aegean. Virtually none of these has any permanent population, or a ferry service, and the only way you can reach them - at least Peristera, Kyra Panayia and Yioura - is by excursion kaiki (ask at Ikos Travel), weather permitting. No boats are allowed to take you to the other, more remote islets, as they are protected areas within the Sporades National Marine Park. But though it is possible to be left for a night or more on any of the closer islands, be sure to bring more supplies than you need: if the weather worsens you'll be marooned until such time as small craft can reach you.

Peristera is the closest islet to Alonissos, to which it was once actually joined, but subsidence (a common phenomenon in the area) created the narrow straits between the two. It is graced with some sandy beaches and there is rarely anyone around, though some Alonissans do come over for short periods to tend the olive groves, and in season there are regular evening "barbecue boats" from the main island. As on Alonissos, a few unofficial campers are tolerated, but there is only one spot, known locally as "Barbecue Bay", where campfires are allowed.

Kyra Panayia (also known as Pelagos) is the next islet out and is equally fertile. It's owned by the Meyistis Lavras monastery of Mount Athos and there are two monasteries here, one still inhabited. Boats call at a beach on the south shore, one of many such sandy stretches and coves around the island. There's no other permanent population besides wild goats.

Nearby Yioura boasts a stalactite cave reputed to be the previous abode of Polyphemus, the Cyclops who imprisoned Odysseus, but you won't be able to check its credentials. No one is allowed within 500m of the island, since, like Piperi, it lies inside the restricted zone of the Marine Park.

Piperi , near Yioura, is a seabird and monk-seal refuge, and permission from a ministry of the environment

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representative (in Alonissos) is required for visits by specialists; nonscientists are not allowed. Tiny, northernmost Psathoura is dominated by its powerful modern lighthouse, the tallest in the Aegean, although here, as around many of these islands, there's a submerged ancient town, brought low by the endemic subsidence. Roughly halfway between Alonissos and Skyros, green Skantzoura , with a single empty monastery and a few seasonal shepherds, is a smaller version of Kyra Panayia.


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10/14/2008 4:24:17 AM

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