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ARGOS , 12km south of the Mykines junction, is said to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Greece (c. 5000 years), although you wouldn't know it from first impressions. However, this turn-of-the-century trading centre has some pleasant squares and Neoclassical buildings, and a brief stop is worthwhile for the excellent museum and mainly Roman ruins. Try to time your visit to coincide with the regular Wednesday market , which draws locals from all the surrounding hill villages; the market square is between the Kapodhistria barracks' three-sided courtyard and the Neoclassical market building, and is unofficially though invariably referred to as the Laiki Agora. The modern Archeological Museum (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; ?1.50) is just off the pedestrianized Elgas street between the market square and the main church square, Platia Ayiou Petrou. It makes an interesting detour after Mycenae, with a good collection of Mycenaean tomb objects and armour as well as extensive pottery finds. The region's Roman occupation is well represented here, in sculpture and mosaics, and there are also finds from Lerna on display. Before you leave Argos, visit the town's ancient remains which are ten-minutes' walk down the Tripoli road - initially Fidhonos, then Theatrou - from the market square. The site (daily 8.30am-3pm; free) is surprisingly extensive; the theatre , built by Classical Greeks and adapted by the Romans, looks oddly narrow from the road, but climb up to the top and it feels immense. Estimated to have held 20,000 spectators - six thousand more than Epidaurus - it is matched on the Greek mainland only by the theatres at Megalopolis and Dodona. Alongside are the remains of an odeion and Roman baths . Above the site looms the ancient acropolis , on a conical hill capped by the largely Frankish medieval castle of Larissa (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; free), built on sixth-century BC foundations and later augmented by the Venetians and Turks. Massively walled, cisterned and guttered, the sprawling ruins offer wonderful views - the reward for a long, steep haul up, either on indistinct trails beyond the theatre, or a very roundabout road.
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