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Lefkadha Town sits at the island's northernmost tip, hard by the causeway. Like other southerly capitals, it was hit by the earthquakes of 1948 and 1953, and the town was devastated, with the exception of a few Italianate churches . As a precaution against further quakes, little was rebuilt above two storeys, and most houses acquired second storeys of wood, giving the western dormitory area an unintentionally quaint look. The town is small - you can cross it on foot in little over ten minutes - and despite the destruction, still very attractive, especially around the main square, Platia Ayiou Spyridhonos, and the arcaded high street of Ioannou Mela. Much of Lefkadha Town is pedestrian-only, mainly because of the narrowness of its lanes. The centre boasts over half a dozen richly decorated private family churches, usually locked and best visited around services. Many contain gems from the Ionian School of painting, including work by its founder, Zakynthian Panayiotis Doxaras. The folklore museum was closed for renovation at the time of writing, but you can catch a glimpse of the old way of life at the quaint little Phonograph Museum (daily 9am-1pm & 6-11pm; free), which is dedicated to antique phonographs and bric-a-brac, and sells cassettes of rare traditional music. On the northwestern seafront a new Cultural Centre houses the newly expanded archeological museum (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; ?1.50), which contains interesting, well-labelled displays on aspects of daily life, religious worship and funerary customs in ancient times, as well as a room on prehistory dedicated to the work of eminent German archeologist Wilhelm Dorpfeld.
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