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AYIA EFIMIA , 9km north of Sami, is a friendly little fishing harbour popular with package operators, yet with no major developments. Its two drawbacks are its beaches - the largest, Paradise beach, is around 20m of shingle, although there are other coves to the south - and its poor transport connections (only two daily buses to Sami and Fiskardho). Accommodation here is good at two small, smart hotels : Pyllaros (tel 06740/61 800, fax 61 801; ?73 and upwards) and the better-value Moustakis (tel & fax 06740/61 030; ?43-58) or the apartments of Yerasimos Raftopoulos (tel 06740/61 233, fax 61 216; ?43-58). The Dendrinos taverna , round the headland past the harbour, is the place for island cuisine; the Pergola also has a wide range of island specialities and standard Greek dishes. Predictably, the cafe-bar where the film crew and actors used to hang out has been renamed Captain Corelli's . The town's nightclub is Paranoia , 700m out of town towards Fiskardho. The Strawberry zaharoplastio is the place for a filling breakfast.
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