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LIMENARIA , the island's second town, was built to house German mining executives brought in by the Ottomans at the turn of the 19th/20th centuries. Their remaining mansions, scattered on the slopes above the harbour, lend some character, but despite attempts at prettifying the waterfront, it's not the most attractive place on Thassos though it is handy for its banks and cash dispensers, post office and seasonal hydrofoil connections. The best accommodation , should you take a shine to the place is the hotel George (tel 05930/51 413, fax 52 530; 43-58), a relative newcomer with bright and modern rooms at the lower end of the main street leading down to the harbourfront. At the east end of the quay, in some 1960s blocks, are a cluster of very basic hotels such as the Sgouridis (tel 05930/51 241; 34-42) and the towering Papayioryiou (tel 05930/51 205; 24-42), with mostly Greek clientele. There are also plenty of rooms on offer (up to 24-42). For eating and drinking, choose from among half-a-dozen each of bars and eateries along the front. The closest good beach is Trypiti , a couple of kilometres west - turn left into the pines at the start of a curve right. All development - mostly package villas - is well inland from the broad, 800-metre long strand, although there are umbrellas and sun loungers for rent. The cleft which the name refers to (literally "pierced" in Greek), is a slender tunnel through the headland at the west end of the beach, leading to a tiny three-boat anchorage. Continuing clockwise from Limenaria to Thassos town, there's progressively less to stop off for as the western coast is the most exposed and scenically least impressive. The various skales such as Skala Kalirahis and Skala Sotiros - stop-offs for ferries - are bleak, straggly and windy. Skala Marion , 13km from Limenaria, is the exception that proves the rule: an attractive little bay, with fishing boats hauled up on the sandy foreshore, and the admittedly modern low-rise village arrayed in a U-shape all around. There are rooms available (24-42), a few tavernas, and, most importantly, two fine beaches on either side. Skala Prinou has little to recommend it, other than ferry connections to Kavala. Buses are usually timed to coincide with the ferries, but if you want to stay, there are several hotels, numerous rooms, quayside tavernas and an EOT campsite (tel 05930/71 171; June-Sept) 1km south of the ferry dock. Skala Rahoniou , between here and Limenas, has more accommodation (including the Perseus campsite) and fish restaurants, as well as proximity to Pahys beach , 9km short of Limenas, by far the best strand on the northwest coast. Narrow dirt tracks lead past various tavernas through surviving pines to the sand, partly shaded in the morning.
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