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The dispersed hamlet of KINYRA , some 24km south of Limenas, marks the start of the burnt zone which overlooks it, though incipient greenery suggests that recovery is underway; it's endowed with a poor beach, a couple of grocery stores and several small hotels. Those not block-booked include Villa Athina (tel 05930/41 214; ?24-33) at the north end of things, whose top-floor rooms see the water over the olive trees, and the welcoming Pension Marina (tel 05930/31 384; ?24-33). The Faros is about the only independent taverna here. Kinyra is convenient for the superior beaches of Loutrou (1km south) and partly nudist Paradise (3km along) - officially called Makryammos Kinyron - both of which can be reached down poorly signposted dirt tracks. The latter ranks as most scenic of all Thassian beaches, with still-forested cliffs inland and a namesake islet offshore beyond the extensive shallows, with much cleaner water than at Khryssi Ammoudhia, though a couple of ugly buildings have sprung up over the past year or so. So far the only place for food and drink is a mediocre snack bar that exploits its monopoly. The south-facing coast of Thassos has the balance of the island's best beaches. ALYKI hamlet, 35km from Limenas and just below the main road, faces a perfect double bay which almost pinches off a headland. Alone of Thassian seaside settlements, it retains its original whitewashed, slate-roofed architecture, because the presence of extensive antiquities here has led to a ban on any modern construction. The ruins include an ancient temple to an unknown deity, and two exquisite early-Christian basilicas out on the headland, with a few columns re-erected. The sand-and-pebble west bay gets oversubscribed in peak season, though you can always stalk off to the less crowded, rocky east cove, or snorkel in the crystal-clear waters off the marble formations on the headland's far side. A row of water-edge tavernas compete for your custom, with To Limanaki/The Little Mole winning, if only for its varied menu. Ask around for rooms (?34-42).
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