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HORA , also known as Samothraki , is Ayios Efstratios's capital. Far larger than implied by the portion visible from out at sea, it's an attractive town of Thracian-style stone houses, some of them whitewashed, clustered around a hollow in the western flanks of Mount Fengari. It is dominated by the Genoese Gateluzzi fort, of which little survives other than the gateway. Half an hour or so can be whiled away at the charming folklore museum , which is free, but the opening hours are erratic; it contains a motley collection of clothing, domestic items and miscellany. Hora has no reliable short-term accommodation, though asking for unadvertised rooms in the various kafenia along the winding commercial street can be productive. On the atmospheric, irregularly shaped platia, a couple of tavernas , Iy Platia and the more down-to-earth To Kastro , provide the best suppers on the island, with such delicacies as stuffed squid and mydhia saganaki (mussels with cheese). There have been mutterings of moving the administrative capital down to Kamariotissa, but until further notice the island's post office is here.
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