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The southernmost portion of the island is indented by two great inlets, the gulfs of Kalloni and Yera , the first curving in a northeasterly direction, the latter northwesterly, creating a fan-shaped peninsula at the heart of which looms 967-metre Mount Olymbos. Both shallow gulfs are almost landlocked by virtue of very narrow outlets to the open sea, which don't have - and probably never will have - bridges spaning them. This is the most verdant and productive olive-producing territory on Lesvos, and the stacks of pressing-mills stab the skyline. With its disused industrial warehouses, PERAMA is one of the larger places on the Gulf of Yera, and has a regular kaiki-ferry service (no cars) linking it with Koundoroudhia and blue city buses to/from Mytilini on the far side. A more likely reason to show up is to patronize one of the better taverna-ouzeris in the region: Balouhanas , northernmost of a line of eateries on the front, with a wooden, cane-roofed balcony jutting out over the water. The name's a corruption of balikhane or "fish-market" in Turkish, and seafood is a strong point, whether grilled or made into croquettes, as are regional starters like giouzlemes (cheese-stuffed fried crepe) and own-made desserts. They're open all year (lunch & dinner); count on ?15 per head.
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