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Apart from the remote hamlet of Khryssomilia in the north, where the island's longest (and often roughest) road goes, most of Fourni's inhabitants are concentrated in the port and Kambi hamlet just to the south. The harbour community is larger than it seems from the sea, with a friendly ambience reminiscent of 1970s Greece. Among several rooms establishments, the most popular are the various premises run by Manolis and Patra Markakis (tel 02750/51 268), immediately to your left as you disembark; there are simple rooms, some with balconies (up to ?24), and superb hilltop studios (?24-33). If they're full you can head inland to the modern block of Evtyhia Amoryianou (tel 02750/51 364; up to ?24), whose father Nikos Kondylas meets all boats and is a mine of information about the island. There are two full-service waterfront tavernas : local favourite Rementzo , better known as Nikos ', where, if you're lucky, the local astakos or Aegean lobster may be on the menu until mid-August; or the cheaper, less polished Miltos , also with good seafood. For breakfast and desserts, repair to the tamarisk terrace at the Markakis family's To Arhondiko tis Kyras Kokonas , under their inn. There's surprisingly lively nightlife at a half-dozen music bars, clubs and ouzeris, often until 5am. The central "high street", fieldstoned and mulberry-shaded, ends well inland at a little platia with more traditional kafenia under each of two plane trees; between them stands a Hellenistic sarcophagus found in a nearby field, and overhead is a conical hill, site of the ancient acropolis. There's a post office , plus several surprisingly well-stocked shops, but at the time of writing no functioning cash machine or other money-changing facilities, so come prepared. A fifteen-minute trail-walk south from the school, skirting the cemetery and then slipping over the windmill ridge, brings you to KAMBI , a scattered community overlooking a pair of sandy, tamarisk-shaded coves which you may share with chickens and hauled-up fishing boats. There are two cheap, comparable and sustaining tavernas : the Kambi with tables on the sand, and O Yiorgos clinging to the side of a valley inland. A path continues to the next bay south which, like Kambi cove, is a preferred anchorage for wandering yachts. Heading north from the harbour via steps, then a trail, you'll find another beach: Psili Ammos in front of a derelict fish-processing plant, with shade at one end. At the extreme north of the island, remote KHRYSSOMILIA is still best approached by the taxi-boat Evangelistria rather than the atrocious eighteen-kil ometre road. The village, split into a shore district and a hillside settlement, has a decent beach flanked by better but less accessible ones. Simple rooms and meals can be arranged on the spot, though the locals can be less than forthcoming with outsiders. The hamlet and monastery of Ayios Ioannis Prodhromos in the far south of Fourni is probably a better day-trip target on foot, taxi-boat or by scooter (available for rent), with some good, secluded beaches just below.
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