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The twisting, 41-kilometre road from Ayios Kirykos to Evdhilos is one of the most hair-raising on any Greek island (especially as a taxi passenger), and the long ridge extending the length of Ikaria often wears a streamer of cloud, even when the rest of the Aegean is clear. Karavostamo, with its tiny, scruffy port, is the first substantial north-coast place, beyond which a series of three beaches leads up to EVDHILOS . Although this is the island's second town and a daily ferry stop on the Samos-Mykonos-Syros line, it's far less equipped to deal with visitors than Ayios Kirykos. Evdhilos offers just two hotels - the Evdoxia on the slope southwest of the harbour (tel 02750/31 502; ?59-72) and the low-lying Atheras (tel 02750/31 434, fax 31 926; ?43-58) with a small pool - plus a few rooms , the best of which are run by Apostolos Stenos (tel 02750/31 365; up to ?24) just west of town. A post office up towards the Evdoxia , a pair of cashpoints , and two good beaches just to the east, are also worth knowing about, though the nearer beach will be blighted in the coming years by a new, much-needed harbour jetty. Among several waterfront restaurants , the wood-signed " Kafestiatorio " between O Flisvos and the Blue Nice boat-ticket agency is the most reliable and reasonable option, but for more interesting fare head 1km west of the harbour to Fytema hamlet, where just on the roadside To Inomayerio tis Popis, alias To Fytema (Easter-Sept), has lots of options for vegetarians, excellent local wine, low prices and pleasant terrace seating, though portions are on the small side. KAMBOS , 1.5km west of Fytema, offers a small hilltop museum with finds from nearby ancient Oinoe ; the twelfth-century church of Ayia Irini lies just below, with the remains of a fourth-century Byzantine basilica serving as the entry courtyard. Lower down still are the sparse ruins of a Byzantine palace (just above the road) used to house exiled nobles, as well as a 250-metre-long sandy beach with a musical drinks kantina . Rooms Dhionysos are available from the store run by Vassilis Kambouris (tel 02750/31 300 or 31 688; ?24-33), who also acts as the unofficial and enthusiastic tourism officer for this part of Ikaria, keeping the keys for the church and museum. By following the road heading inland from the large church in Evdhilos, you can also visit the Byzantine castle of Koskina (Nikarias), just over 15km south. The road signposted for Manganitis is paved through Kosikia, just over 9km away, and for 2km more to the marked side track. You can get a bike or jeep along this to within a short walk of the tenth-century castle, perched on a distinctive conical hill, with an arched gateway and a fine vaulted chapel. Beyond this turning, the road creeps over the island watershed and drops precipitously in hairpins towards the south coast; most of this is paved, and with your own vehicle offers an alternative (and much less curvy) way back to Ayios Kirykos in much the same time as via Karavostomo
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