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Passing ferries on the Paros-Naxos-Fourni-Dodecanese line call at the south-coast port and capital of AYIOS KIRYKOS , about 1km southwest of the island's main thermal resort. Because of the spa trade, beds are at a premium in town; arriving in the evening from Samos, accept any reasonable offers of rooms at the jetty, or - if in a group - proposals of a taxi ride to the north coast, which shouldn't cost more than ?22 per vehicle to Armenistis. A cream-and-green bus sets out across the island from the main square (summer Mon-Fri only at noon) to Evdhilos, usually changing vehicles there at 1.30pm, for the onward trip to Armenistis. The baths (daily 8am-1pm) in Therma are rather old-fashioned stone tubs, with preference given to those under medical care. A better bet for a less formal soak are the more natural, shoreline hot springs at Therma Lefkadhos , 3km southwest of Ayios Kirykos, below a cluster of villas. Here the seaside spa is derelict, leaving the water to boil up right in the shallows, mixing with the sea between giant volcanic boulders to a pleasant temperature. A more conventional beach - the largest on the south coast - is found at Faros , 10km northeast of Ayios Kirykos along a good paved road (which also serves the airport). A considerable colony of summer cottages shelters under tamarisks fringing the mixed sand-and-gravel strand, with a reefy zone to cross before deep water; this rather end-of-the-world place looks across to Fourni and Thymena, whose beaches (and landscape) it strongly resembles. But the best reason to make the trip out is an excellent, inexpensive and quick-serving fish taverna , Leonidas , with grilled or fried seafood plus bulk wine (excellent, as it usually is on Ikaria), better than anything in Ayios itself and accordingly popular.
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