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Northern Hios never really recovered from the 1822 massacre, and the desolation left by fires in 1981 and 1987 will further dampen inquisitive spirits. Since the early 1900s the villages have languished all but deserted much of the year, which means correspondingly sparse bus services. About one-third of the former population now lives in Hios Town, venturing out here only during major festivals or to tend smallholdings; others, based in Athens or the US, visit their ancestral homes for just a few intense weeks in midsummer, when marriages are arranged between local families
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