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Ayios Efstratios is without doubt one of the quietest and loneliest islands in the Aegean. Historically, the only outsiders to stay here were compelled to do so - it served as a place of exile for political prisoners under both the Metaxas regime of the 1930s and the various right-wing governments that followed the civil war. It's still unusual for foreign travellers to visit the island, and, if you do, you might be asked why you've shown up. You may initially ask yourself the same question, for AYIOS EFSTRATIOS village - the only habitation on the island - must be one of the ugliest in Greece. Devastation caused by an earthquake in February 1968, which killed half the population, was compounded by the reconstruction plan: the contract went to a company with junta connections, who prevented the survivors from returning to their old homes and used army bulldozers to raze even those structures that could have been repaired. From the hillside, some two dozen surviving houses of the old village overlook its replacement, whose grim rows of prefabs constitute a sad monument to the corruption of the junta years. If you're curious, there's a pre-earthquake photograph of the village in the kafenio by the port. Architecture apart, Ayios Efstratios still functions as a traditional fishing and farming community, with the prefabs set at the mouth of a wooded stream valley draining to the sandy harbour beach. Tourist amenities consist of just two basic tavernas (a third may open in midsummer), plus a total of three pensions . Best of these, in one of the surviving old houses, is the Xenonas Ai-Stratis (tel 02540/93 329; ?34-42); Andonis Paneras (tel 02540/93 209; ?34-42) and Apostolos Paneras (tel 02540/93 343; ?34-42) have more conventional rooms in the prefabs. These relatively stiff prices for such an out-of-the-way place reflect Ai Stratis' increasing popularity with Greeks, and you may have to ring all three spots for a vacancy in season. As you walk away from the village - there are few cars and no real roads - things improve rapidly. The landscape, dry hills and valleys scattered with a surprising number of oak trees, is deserted apart from wild rabbits, sheep, an occasional shepherd, and some good beaches where you can camp in seclusion. Alonitsi , on the north coast - a ninety-minute walk from the village following a track up the north side of the valley - is a two-kilometre stretch of sand with rolling breakers and views across to Limnos. South of the village, there's a series of greyish sand beaches, most with wells and drinkable water, although with few real paths in this part of the island, getting to them can be something of a scramble. Lidhario , at the end of an attractive wooded valley, is the first worthwhile beach, but again it's a ninety-minute walk, unless you can persuade a fisherman to take you by boat. Some of the caves around the coast are home to the rare Mediterranean monk seal, but you're unlikely to see one. Ferries on the Kavala-Limnos- Rafina line call at Ayios Efstratios twice weekly most of the year; in summer a small Limnos-based ferry, the Aiolis , sails every weekday (Mon-Fri) at 3pm from Limnos, returning the next morning. Despite recent harbour improvements, this is still a very exposed anchorage, and in bad weather you could end up stranded here far longer than you bargained for. If an indefinite stay does not appeal, it's best to visit from Limnos on the day-trip offered by the Aiolis (usually on Sun).
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