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With its unpaved streets, unfinished building sites and higgledy-piggledy layout, LIVADHIA makes a poor introduction to the island, but it remains the better equipped of the two settlements to deal with tourists, and is closer to the majority of remaining path-hikes. There are generally enough beds in the various rooms and hotels to go around, but in peak season it's certainly worth phoning ahead. Budget options include a few adjacent outfits on the shore just beyond the Italian "palace", for example Paradise (aka Stamatia's ; tel 02410/44 341; up to ?24) or two studios next door at Galini (aka Paraskevi tel 02410/44 280; ?24-33). Further along the bay are some newer, better-appointed options: Anastasia (tel 02460/44 111; up to ?24), just behind the Armenon taverna, where a usual willingness to bargain offsets slightly small rooms, or Pavlos and Nina (tel 02460/44 011; ?24-33), overlooking the sea near the friendly Eleni Beach Hotel about halfway around the bay (tel 02460/44 062, fax 44 063; ?43-58), with large airy rooms requiring advance booking. The Faros Hotel (tel 02460/44 068; ?34-42) at the extreme end of the bay is widely praised for calm and its hospitable managing family, and also has a decent restaurant. Inland, go for the well-appointed Studios Irinna (tel 02410/44 366; ?24-33), alias Kula's , above the ironmonger's which runs it; the Hotel Irini (tel 02410/44 293, fax 44 238; ?43-58), 200m inland from mid-beach, with a pool, all mod cons and generally a few on-spec vacancies in amongst the Laskarina package clients here; or, tops on the island and only really available outside peak season, the B-class Hotel Tilos Mare (tel 02460/44 100, fax 44 105; ?34-42). There must be a dozen-plus tavernas operating around Livadhia in peak season, of which perhaps half merit consideration. Among the more authentic spots for a no-nonsense Greek feed are Irina (alias Stefanos and Maria ), doling out inexpensive mayirefta right on the shore near the church; Psistaria Kritikos in the village centre, well regarded by carnivores for its goat chops, sausages and chicken; To Armenon (alias Nikos') on the shore road, an excellent and salubrious beach-taverna-cum-ouzeri, with octopus salad, white beans and the like; and inland on the way to Armenon , the Pantelis Souvla Maria's Pizza (sic), doing just those things superbly, despite zero atmosphere courtesy of plastic chairs and a purple bug-zapper. The best place for reliably fresh grilled fish with mezedhes is Blue Sky , an unmissable eyrie perched above the ferry dock. For breakfast (plus evening pizzas and home-made desserts), Anglo-Italian Joanna's Cafe , just inland from Kritikos , is hard to beat, also with a long list of strong cocktails. Iy Omonia , under trees strung with light bulbs, near the post office, is the enduringly popular "traditional" alternative for a sundowner, breakfast or while waiting for a ferry, and also does inexpensive, savoury mezedhes. Livelier, organized nightlife in or near Livadhia is limited to three bars: Cafe Ino on the shore near Irina for the trendy set, the Bozi at the far east end of the bay (nightly in summer, weekends otherwise) and a durable music pub in Mikro Horio. There's a post office , but as yet no bank or cash dispenser, so come with sufficient Greek cash or apply to either travel agency (Tilos Travel will do cash advances on plastic for a small commission). A bakery and several well-stocked supermarkets round out the roster of amenities.
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