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From Livadhia you can walk an hour north along the obvious trail to the pebble bay of Lethra , or in about the same time south on separate itineraries to the secluded coves of Stavros or Tholos . The track to the former begins between the Tilos Mare Hotel and the Castellania Apartments , becoming a trail at the highest new house in the village; once up to the saddle with its new road, you've a sharp drop to the beach - ignore over-eager cairning in the bed of the descending ravine, the true path is up on the right bank, indicated by red-paint surveyor's marks. The route to Tholos begins by the cemetery and the chapel of Ayios Pandelimon with its Byzantine hokhlaki court, then curls around under the seemingly impregnable castle of Agriosykia ; from the saddle overlooking the descent to Tholos (again, surveyed in preparation for refurbishment), a route marked with cairns leads northwest to the citadel in twenty minutes.

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It's less than an hour's walk west, with some surviving path sections shortcutting the road curves, up to the ghost village of Mikro Horio , whose 1200 inhabitants left for Livadhia during the 1950s. The only intact structures are the church (locked except for the August 15 festival) and an old house which has been restored as a small-hours music pub and operates only during July and August, with a variable formula of Greek/foreign music, and a shuttle van laid on from the port.


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12/2/2008 8:18:11 PM

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