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The neoclassical and vernacular houses of PLATANOS , the island capital 1km west of Pandelli, are draped gracefully along a saddle between two hills, one of them crowned by the inevitable Knights' castle. Known locally as the Kastro , this is reached either by a paved but potholed road peeling off the Pandelli road, or via a more scenic stair-path from the central square; the battlements, and the views from them, are dramatic, especially near sunrise or sunset. The medieval church of Panayia tou Kastrou inside the gate houses a small museum (daily 8am-1pm & 4-7.30pm; ?1.50), though its carved temblon and naive oratory are more remarkable than the sparse exhibits, which are mostly icons and other liturgical items. Except for Hotel Eleftheria (tel 02470/23 550; ?24-33), with a peaceful hillside location, Platanos is not really a place to stay or eat, although it's well sown with shops and services . The latter include Olympic Airways, south of the turning for Pandelli, a post office , down the road towards Ayia Marina, and two banks (one with a cash dispenser). The single bus (schedule posted at the stop, opposite the island's main taxi rank) plies four to six times daily between Partheni in the north and Xirokambos in the south. Platanos merges seamlessly with AYIA MARINA , 1km north on the shore of a fine bay, still graced by a small, Italian-built public market building. If you're travelling to Leros on an excursion boat, catamaran or hydrofoil, this will be your port of entry. Although accommodation here is very limited, it's arguably the best place to eat on the island. Just west of the police station, on the water, Mezedhopolio tou Kapaniri is a good, reasonable ouzeri, at its best after dark, featuring plenty of fried vegetable first courses. Just inland opposite the Agrotiki Trapeza in a little alley, the Kapetan Mihalis ouzeri claims to be open all day and offers a range of inexpensive local specialities, including various fish marinated in salt ( pastos ). Further west, there's the Ouzeri Neromylos , out by the marooned windmill, serving a wide variety of dishes. A semblance of nightlife is provided by a half-dozen bars, such as Enallaktiko , with a few internet terminals, and Harama on the quay. Kastis Travel nearby (tel 02470/22 140) is about the most useful travel agency on the island, plus there's a stand-alone cash dispenser on the quay.
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