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Just less than 3km north of Lakki, Pandelli and Vromolithos together form the fastest-growing resort on the island - and are certainly two of the more attractive and scenic places to stay, if not eat. PANDELLI is still very much a working port, the cement jetty benefiting local fishermen as well as an increasing number of yachts which call here. A negligible beach is compensated for by a relative abundance of non-package accommodation , such as the Pension Happiness (tel 02470/23 498; ?24-33) where the road down from Platanos meets the sea, or, for a higher standard, the Niki Studios (tel 02470/25 600; ?34-42) at the base of the road to the castle, airy, Aussie-run and with partial sea views. Up on the ridge dividing Pandelli from Vromolithos, the Pension Fanari (tel 02470/23 152; ?24-33) would seem a good choice for its calm setting below the road and views across to the castle, though hot-water provision was defective at our last stay. Further south along the ridge road, the en suite Hotel Rodon (tel 02470/23 524; ?24-33) is another possibility, though a potentially noisy (but recommended; see below) restaurant operates right next door, as does the musical Beach Bar , perched on a rock terrace below, facing Vromolithos. The other long-lived local bar is the civilized Savana , at the opposite end of Pandelli, beyond the row of waterfront tavernas which, alas, have in recent years mostly become tourist traps of the first order. Exceptions include Psaropoula , with good fish and mayirefta; Kafenio tou Tzamma , a seafood ouzeri; and the taverna adjacent to Hotel Rodon , the Dimitris , which scores highly for its stuffed squash blossoms (in autumn) and chunky, herby Lerian sausages. VROMOLITHOS boasts the best easily accessible beach on the island, car-free and hemmed in by hills studded with massive oaks. The shoreline is gravel and coarse sand, and the sea here is clean, but as so often on Leros you have to cross a nasty, sharp reef at most points before reaching deeper water. Two tavernas behind the beach trade more on their location than their cuisine, but the standard of accommodation here is higher than at Pandelli, with the result that much of it tends to be monopolized by package companies.
pension happinesscat says "i found it really dirty and the owners not kind!!!"
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