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The current population is concentrated in the northern town of KASTELLORIZO - supposedly the finest natural harbour between Beirut and Fethiye on the Turkish coast - and its little "suburb" of Mandhraki , just over the fire-blasted hill with its half-ruined Knights' castle. Its outer bulwark now houses the worthwhile local museum (Tues-Sun 7am-2.30pm; free), with displays including plates from a Byzantine shipwreck, frescoes rescued from decaying rural churches and a reconstruction of an ancient basilica on the site of today's gaudy Ayiou Yeoryiou Santrape church at Horafia. Just below and beyond the museum, in the cliff-face opposite Psoradhia islet, is Greece's only Lycian house-tomb ; it's well signposted from the shoreline walkway, up some steps beside the first wooden lamp standard. Most of the town's surviving mansions are ranged along the waterfront, their tiled roofs, wooden balconies and blue or green shutters on long, narrow windows having obvious counterparts in the originally Greek-built houses of Kalkan and Kas¸ just across the water. Just one or two streets back, however, many properties are derelict - abandonment having succeeded where the World War I shelling, a 1926 earthquake and the 1944 explosions failed; sepia-toned posters and black-and-white postcards on sale of the town in its prime are poignant evidence of its later decline
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