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The skyline of EMBORIO , the island's port and only habitation, is pierced by the tallest freestanding clocktower in the Dodecanese and, a bit further north, the belfry of Ayios Nikolaos church. Emborio's restored houses are pretty much block-booked from April to October by the tour companies mentioned; independent travellers will be lucky to find anything at all on spec, even early or late in the season. Non-package accommodation , all requiring advance reservations, includes the delightful, en-suite Captain's House (tel 02460/45 201; ?24-33), which has the feel of an old French country hotel and whose English manageress Christine can point you in likely directions if she's full; Pension Keanthi (tel 02460/45 334; ?24-33) near the school, offering bland, pine-furnished rooms with high ceilings plus a few galleried studios (?34-42); and the municipally-owned Hotel Halki (tel 02460/49 390; ?34-42) in the old sponge factory on the south side of the bay, indifferently managed and beset by creeping damp, but likely to have a vacancy. Of the half-dozen tavernas along the field-stoned, pedestrianized waterfront, Remezzo (aka Takis ) is excellent for mayirefta and pizzas, Maria behind the post office has good grills, while Houvardas , near the north end of the quay has proven reliable for mayirefta over the years. Amongst a similar number of bars and cafes, the standout has to be Soula's (aka "The Parrot Bar" after resident birds), near the base of the jetty, with puddings and own-made ice cream to die for. There's a post office , four well-stocked stores, two good bakeries cranking out a range of bread and pies, plus two travel agencies which sell boat tickets and change money (there's no bank); one of them, Zifos Travel (tel 02460/45 028, zifos-travel@rho.forthnet.gr ) often has a few vacancies amongst studios which they hold back from the UK companies.
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